10. Istanbul and the trip home to Australia

I love a hotel that has opening windows like this one.  The view over Istanbul is quite  impressive.  Even out the bathroom window from the bed!!  It also had spectacular view out over Istanbul even through the toilet window which I could see from the bed.   The morning started with yoga as my room was quite spacious.  I went down to have breakfast and the selection was extensive, including two types of halva...gotta love that, rah!  My request for scrambled rather than fried eggs seemed to be a little challenging and took a while to come but they were delicious.  It seemed to be a predominantly business (and male) hotel with me being the only female eating by myself for quite some time, there were one or two others in the end.  I returned to my room and got myself together.  There was no point fighting the inevitable.  It was time to go home 

My flight home left at 2pm on Wednesday 27 September.  So here I was, at the end of my extraordinary year!  At checkout,,my breakfast was listed as included in the room rate and confirmed when I questioned it, as I didn’t think it was included.  The hotel had a shuttle to the airport during the day. Unfortunately it stopped at 5pm so I had to get a taxi last night, but at least I could utilise it today.  As always the driver was extremely friendly, helpful and polite.  At the airport the security seemed extensive.  There were men in uniform everywhere (not necessarily a bad thing!)  There was also at least one car being searched on its the way into the airport.  Baggage checks were conducted on entry to airport building, so you can imagine how slow that was, and then again at gate.

Finally through security and checked in with appreciated efficiency.  As always with travel I fill in the time before leaving by walking around, anticipating sitting on a plane for quite some time.  I feel really good to be going home to family and friends but sad to be leaving Turkey.  Even Istanbul felt good to me but there is no denying the magnified stimulus of a city is not so welcome.  I much prefer the quiet life of Gocek.  But there is a definite connection with Turkey.  Back again next year?  Maybe....Who knows where this life will take me.

My flight home was less convoluted than on the way to Turkey.  On Etihad Airlines it was simply Istanbul to Abu Dhabi with a short stop of a couple of hours then on a flight to Melbourne.  The trip was uneventful except on the first leg I sat next to a man from Soldiers Point which is very near Rob from North Arm Cove who I met when sailing with Mark and Di.  I didnt know anyone from that area and now I know two people..not counting my dear friends Kerrie and Leigh in Medowie.  The man, Craig, was great company and the trip went quite fast. He didnt know my friend Rob, but he was a yachty.

On the second leg home I sat next to a nice couple but they had some bad luck with the man tipping a full cup of boiling tea on himself and getting quite a bad burn on his stomach.  He was very non fussed about it but I think it was quite sore and I have to say the staff were not much help.  They did eventually bring some cream.  I did also have trouble getting a cup of tea out of ordinary serving hours.  When I asked I was told they were about to start service of one of the meals but that seemed not to include tea as it turned out.  I think all up I waited about 6 hours for a cup of tea!!  I have to add to this that the crew on the first leg (on the same airline) were brilliant and couldnt do enough to help you out. But if I had to choose between Etihad and Qatar, I would pick Qatar!

9. Last days in Turkey

Monday (26 September) was my last full day in Gocek and I didnt want to leave.  The one thing I hadnt done by this stage was take a trip across to the Upper Deck Beach Club at Club Marina on what Steve and I had nicknamed the beetle ferry.  It first appeared as a very speedy red and green light on the water as it went backwards and forwards from the marina the night we were sitting by the pool "chatting" all night.   Then 
in the light of day it looked like a little beetle, hence the name.  Yasin told me it was actually called Cay Kupasi which means tea cup in Turkish, almost as cute as the beetle ferry!!  The walk from the wharf to the beach club was very pretty.  When I arrived at Upper Deck I was the only one there as it was quite late in the day.  This was good as I didnt have to pay the entry fee!!  I say on one of the pink seats (they were all pink) and had a mojito which was enormous.  I was joined by Ramizan, the manager and we had a nice chat about his life between Gocek and Istanbul, which seemed to be the way for several locals I had chatted with.

Another thing I wanted to do was eat at Lotis,  so I headed straight there when I arrived back from the Marina, as I needed something to soak up the mojito!!  Lotis had been recommended by the owners of the apartment I was staying in, Ethem and Liberty. There was a very entertaining spruker trying to get people in to eat or just talking with those of us eating early!  It was a beautiful meal and I had some nice wine as well but that mojito without food had really got me, and I was quite intoxicated!  No Yasin tonight, as he didn’t call until 11pm and to me thats just a booty call....no deal...eek :)!

After a good sleep Im got up and laid by the pool to soak up that view (and the sun), trying to etch it permanently on my memory.  I decide to go to Can Restaurant, another recommendation of the owners, for lunch and as I was passing Dice, Yasin was arriving at work.  I told him where I was going and he said he would try and join me.  He was only able to do so for a short time and so I agreed to call in to Dice Cafe on my way back to the apartment.  I headed off to organise my taxi and buy some last minute things, like new thongs, just the same as the last pair I had bought when we were there in September 2010. 

I have my last glass of wine and a serve of sarma at Dice Cafe.  Yasin came to the apartment to say goodbye which I thought was very sweet.  He also gave me all his contact details which I wasnt expecting.  Way too soon Im in the taxi, after saying goodbye to Yasin and Necati (the caretaker) and his family.  

I had decided to spend the night in Istanbul to have a restful night before the long flight home.  The flight to Istanbul went to plan and without incident.  There was a beautiful little boy in front of me peeking over the seat, he was only  about 2 or 3 years old and made me smile with his antics!

 

I had a window seat which allowed me to view the spectacular beautiful orange blue sky.  The colours reminded me of Uluru.  My hotel, the Titanic Port Hotel in Bakirkoy, which was just near the airport, was quite impressive except key didn't work.  When I went back to reception to tell them and get the feeling that they think Im a bit useless...:)!  After settling into my room I then find I cant actually turn one of the lights off.  Reluctant to further sully my reputation I decided that I could sleep with the light on!  Alas, I couldnt get to sleep so hesitantly I called reception.  I could hear the condescenscion in his voice.  I was relieved when he arrived that he couldn’t turn it off either, rah...:)!  They had to get the maintenance man to come and have a look.  He also confirmed it wasnt working but sensibly suggested he take the bulb out and fix it tomorrow, which suited me as it was now almost midnight! 

8. Ayran, Sut, and a Waiter!

Thursday morning I was so excited as I finally solved the mystery of the curdling milk that Steve and I had experienced.  I had discovered that the Turkish word for milk is Sut.  I couldnt see this anywhere on the containers (that looked just like a one litre milk carton!) I had been buying.  I had also looked for "Sut" a couple of times at the Supermarket and had not seen it.  The other mysterious thing was that there was no translation that I could find of Ayran which was the name all over the containers I bought.  While investigaing some of the detail of the 12 Island Tour this morning for the blog I randomly came across a description of Ayran, which is a popular drink in these parts.  This consists of, now wait for it and remember we were putting this in our coffee!!  Ayran is yoghurt, coldwater and salt...eek and blah!  When I had finished laughing my legs off I raced to the Supermarket and today they had Sut.  I took it home and had 3 mugs of coffee, one after the other...just because I could....without the curdled milk...:)!

I tried to make  this day and my few remaining days go as slowly as possible.  I go slowly and enjoy every moment...the non- curdled coffee, my breakfast, time by the pool, time in the gym...I even took time and washed my yoga mat...boy was that overdue...eek!

Friday sees me back at  Dice in the evening enjoying a beautiful light in the sky as I watch the sun set... strangely no camera tonight though...oops!  Sometimes I think its good to just enjoy these things rather than view them from behind a camera.  As Yasin was being very friendly tonight I decided to stay for dinner.  After chatting a bit in the restaurant again we arranged for him to come over after work.  Thats 12.30am eek!  Ill have to have a nap before he gets there.  Yasin speaks reasonably good English and we had a really nice time chatting about everything from politics, family, travel, Dice and there were lots of laughs which made me realise how important I think it is that someone can make me laugh.  We chatted until 4.30am and then I had to send him home so I could get some sleep!!

Saturday was another typical day in Turkey for me except for lack of sleep  Relaxed, hot and sunny.  It felt right today to have a self created ritual to let go of some emotions I was hanging on to...it felt good!!

It seemed everywhere I went today people wanted to give me things a complimentary starter, a picture hologram, a hessian bag as I keep refusing plastic.  I appreciated it, dont get me wrong but as Im trying to work out how to get my 19.3kg of luggage down to 15kg (the luggage limit on the cheap flight I booked, darn that fine print!!).  I just had to go back to Ayyash to have more yummy beef stew  It  seems slightly cooler now and I noticed it is only  27 when I am out for dinner.  By midnight, when I got up for another visit from Yasin, I was not feeling so great.  I had a runny nose and was exhausted, nothing to do with 4 hours sleep the night before Im sure.  Yasin came stocked with wine and sarma (stuffed vine leaves). He knows the way to a girl's heart, rah!  He said he had to go help a friend just for half an hour, so I take my opportunity and suggested that maybe he could come back tomorrow.  I relieved him of the wine and sarma though, promising not to eat or drink any of it before he returned...;)  He was fine with that so we planned to meet tomorrow night.  I headed back to bed and had a fitful sleep, not exclusively from being unwell but due to a pesky mosquito. 

Sunday I slept until I woke up naturally rather than set an alarm, I do a gentle yoga session and use a full lime in my daily tonic that I take (lime or lemon juice, honey and warm water).  I feel better but decide to rest up so no laps in the pool or gym today.  I have breakfast but am not overly hungry. I decide that although Im not sure if its viral or bacterial to take the antibiotics that are part of the pharmacy my doctor shipped me off overseas with (mostly for Bali)!  Im not sure what helped but definitely felt better by the end of the day which is good as my midnight visitor arrived as planned....and that is all she wrote...:)!! 

7. Gocek 12 Island Tour and Rain!

Up early today (Wednesday 21 September) to get yoga done and outta here to catch the boat Aviva 2 at 10am to be taken on the “12 Island” tour out from Gocek.  Its a little cloudy but still beautifully warm.  I get to the boat about 9.40am, buy my ticket for 40 TL (about AUD $23); get a spot on the top deck, planting myself at the front in a bean bag; and sent my dear brother a Happy Birthday message before the day ended in Australia!  There’s a lot to be said about bean bags on a boat...very comfortable!  Those that crewed along side me to Tasmania the year I thought making a bean bag mattress for sleeping on may not agree!  Unfortunately the bag burst, right about the same time we broke the boom and those pesky little beans just get in everywhere, bilges, bunks, fridge, toothbrush holder, trouser pockets!  Mostly unintentionally but sometimes intentionally...sorry Keith... :)!  Anyway, on board this vessel (not a yacht) this was a sturdy, much used, outdoor bean bag so no fear of it bursting.  The day started with apple tea and we left dock about 10.30am.   This was another tour recommended by Sheila and Graham.  There were about 30 people on board from all over the world. 

There were five stops along the way including Cleopatra’s Bath (where she is rumoured to have bathed with her lover, Antony), Bedri Rahmi, Aquarium Bay, Ancient Shipyard and Pancake Island.  So I guess the other seven islands are ones where we entered bays or went close to on our way to our stops.  I hadn’t really expected to stop 12 times and it is a beautiful area to travel around by boat.  When we had stopped it was for about 30 minutes in each bay for swimming and snorkelling.  The lunch stop was one hour and a delicious lunch of fresh fish and salad is served (or you could have chicken).  The meal was ended with Turkish delight which I would usually say no to as Im sure I don’t like it.  This day I decided to try it and whaddya know, I actually like it!  And you think you know yourself...:) 

The snorkelling was just okay in these places.  Highlights included an enormous school of smallish silvery clear fish that swam around me for ages and kept coming back; Cleopatra’s bath;  the dramatic sheer drop offs underwater in these places; the ever favourite trumpet fish, this one quite large; and the bright red underwater caterpillar thingy just like the one shown in this photo. http://projektionstudios.deviantart.com/art/Underwater-Caterpillar-139949683  It was about 10cm long and looked really pretty against an otherwise grey backdrop.  I watched it move around the rocks for ages.  It was the first time I had seen one of these.

It got quite windy as the afternoon progressed so some adjustments were made to the itinerary.  Quite good ones though so each place we stopped was calm and serene compared to the quite unsettled conditions outside.  Freshly cut watermelon was served for afternoon tea and more apple tea.  Yes alcohol was available on board but I abstained, imagine that!  

On the way home I stopped at my local, Dice Cafe as I hadn’t been for a couple of days to have a wine and some sarma (stuffed vine leaves).  To my surprise, the gorgeous waiter was very chatty and ignored calls from his boss several times to continue chatting.  I had mentioned to my friend Steve that I thought most Turkish men were quite gorgeous so I was quite happy about this.  I think I may have scared him off when I told Yassem (?) I was 50 as he is only 35...darn it!  Anyway I am blaming the threatening rain for interrupting us.  As I drank my wine the wind strengthen and it was all hands in to batten down the hatches as this little cafe is right on the water.  Cest la vie.  

I made it home before the downpour which was really heavy!  There was a bit of battening down the home hatches when it hit.  Then the power went off but Necati (the fixer of all things at Safir) sorted that out quite quickly.   It appears it is meant to rain tomorrow as well and then clear.  I cant really complain, can I, one day or maybe two out of 20...:)!!

6. Recovery day and Gocek Island

Phew, I woke up Monday (19 September) feeling a little on the shady side!  Today would be a yoga free day, an exercise free day, an alcohol free day and a bread free day.  The bread in Turkey is so delicious its easy to eat loads and loads of it with dips etc.  I had to do a supply shop to get some food to have at home.  Seeing as I didn’t feel like doing anything with the food I bought, and not wanting to be completely exercise free,  I took a long walk, as far as you can go along the foreshore where I had been with Steve before.  By the time I got there I was famished and decided to treat myself to a late lunch at a the fancy schmancy Sunset Bar and Restaurant, complete with white table cloths and overlooking the water...perfect!

 

Beef Fajitas, water, baked rice pudding, and a pretty decent cappuccino .... and okay, maybe some bread!  I felt wonderful afterwards and wandered back to the apartment to relax some more.  As I only had one English channel on the TV which was Al Jezeera, I was either watching DVDs (now that I had worked out the technical side of the equipment) or reading.  As an alternative to this I sourced a subscription to watch season 4 of Merlin on my laptop, no ads...heaven!!

Ferry boat to Gocek Island. 

Gocek Island was a favourite place that Sheila and Graham had told me about. They had been there three times during their two weeks in Turkey so I thought I would check it out today (Tuesday 20 Sept).  It was a dinky little ferry and as you can see by the photo, the motor didn’t start as it should have.  The other couple and I looked at each other nervously (but amused) as the driver tried to get the engine going.   After all it was only 10,000 TL (or about $5) to get to the island.  Luckily he was persistent and finally got the boat going.  It was a lovely ride out to the island that took about 30 minutes.  Sailing would have been nicer as there was a bit of breeze today and quite a few boats out and about, but still very pleasant.   

When we arrived, it was just as Sheila and Graham had described.  There was a small pebbly beach lined with sun beds and umbrellas.  They had given me the tip that the third one in from the end gets the sun all day!  There was a bar and small restaurant.  You were not meant to bring food to the island to ensure a monopoly for the resident family.  There were chickens running around, a couple of dogs and the area had been nicely paved to ensure easy way finding to the toilets and showers .  It was a quaint setting.  I spotted the old man that I had been told sat swatting flies all day, correct! There was a yacht tied up at the small jetty and a couple of motor yachts anchored off in the area.   The water again was clear with the swimming area marked off.   Not much to see snorkelling but the water was beautiful and refreshing.  

I finished a book and started reading the 4 hour work week and was getting very excited about Tim Ferris’ (the author) way of thinking.  It was a great day spent reading and swimming.  I had lunch at the restaurant, yummy cheese rolls and tzaziki, er um and more bread!  About 4pm the ferry arrived to take us back to the mainland.  I had thought that I would be ready and waiting to head back by 4pm.  There were a few ferries to get out to the island then a break and then a few ferries to get back with the last one being 6pm!  I was actually engrossed in my book and had to hurry along to catch the ferry.  How time flies when you are relaxed!!    It was  a big day, so I stopped for a glass of wine on the way home and then headed home for some dinner and another episode of Merlin!

 
While I was out at the island, I symbolically returned the stone I collected at start of this adventure in Costa Rica as part of the yoga retreat I went to.  It seemed fitting as the trip to Turkey had unleashed this restlessness in me and then here I was again, almost a year later nearing the end of my trip!

5. New Friends...

The next few days pass in a similar fashion...yoga, breakfast by my pool, swimming laps, sunbaking, crazily doing more and more at the gym as my body just feels like it needs to move.  I change to doing the gym later in the day before dinner.  After my first gym session I jumped in the shower and headed straight to Dice.  This was a mistake as I was sssooooo hot and sweaty by the time I got there, the bit about having a shower wasn’t as obvious as it should have been....eek!  I decide that in future, after being to the gym, I need to soak in my pool for a while to cool my core down...THEN have a shower and go out.  This seemed to work much better. ...rah!! 

Being a creature of habit as I seem to be, I head off to Dice Cafe each evening at least for a drink (after cooling off in the pool though).  I notice the same couple there each night, just like me.  As I was leaving this Thursday night Sheila and Graham, as I discover they are called, invited me for a drink.  As I had already had enough to drink (surprising I know... :)!)  we agreed to meet there the next night, no time....we just know we will both be there at the same time at some stage.  I love the relaxed approach in these places.

When we meet the next night I discover they are from England, not far from Manchester where my friend Jamie is from.  Sheila is a physiotherapist and Graham sells caravans, but some of these caravans are like mega vans by the sounds of things.  Sheila used to take care of the Australian Cricket team when they were away from Australia and although she didn’t really share any, Im sure she has some wild and wonderful tales to tell!!  We had a lovely time chatting and they were fun.  They told me about the trips they had done while they had been in Gocek which was interesting.  They were staying in a Villa in the hills which was great but it was a bit of a drag getting in and out of town.  It was about a 30 minute walk and as it was always at least 30+ degrees, quite a chore of it.  I was glad I had made the decision to stay in town where I could see my local from my pool....perfect, rah!

We met for drinks each night for the next few nights, they would then go off for dinner.   It was nice to have someone to chat and they were really interesting and great conversationalists.  Graham was a photographer (by hobby) and a sensitive soul that loved the fragrance of the flowers that became evident each evening as we were sitting there.  He had been to Australia and thought the changes in the colours as our day ends gave him some of the best photos he has ever taken.  Sheila was lovely and funny and great fun also so I was lucky to have met them. 

Sunday night was their last night and they invited me for dinner with them, after many drinks at Dice eek!  Monday was Graham’s birthday and despite trying to buy Graham a drink, he ended up buying me one!  A gentleman to the end!  I suggested Ayyash where I had been with Steve once before.  They have this really yummy beef stew served on a very tasty eggplant mash...yum.  We ordered a bottle of wine but I had to insist we try it before we accepted it after having a few bad experiences with wine choice on the last trip to Turkey.    We got a decent bottle and settled in for a lovely meal and some live entertainment.  After many drinks we exchanged emails and called it a night!

4. Gocek solo

After Steve left I didn’t last long out of bed, which he guessed when he texted me from the airport.  The 4 days had taken their toll and I was worn out, but happily so.  It was a very pleasant, cruisy few days.  As I awoke to Tuesday I decided it should be a rehydration day!  No lying in the sun, lots and lots of water to be drunk and moisturise, moisturise, moisturise!  I did lie in the shade though as the view from the infinity pool is spectacular.  I had fruit and yoghurt for breakfast, potato salad (home made) for lunch and then had to go out for dinner as I still had no internet connection. This is day two.  I now had some bills to pay and had not really been in touch with people since arriving here.  Of course the main reason this worries me is being able to watch the Carlton v West Coast Eagles match on Saturday night.  Oh and also to be in touch with people back home....eek love you all!   Sitting in Dice Cafe which is the closest to Safir (where I was staying), is right on the water with spectacular views, I decided to have a glass of wine.....who could blame me right...:)!!  Okay so after 3 it could be said that my plan of a wholesome day had gone a little awry but I didn’t mind in the slightest.

I also discovered today that the big night Steve and I had by the pool had not gone unnoticed.  Apparently our neighbours had rung the land lord complaining.   Not quite sure why they didn’t just come out and ask us to go inside!  Perhaps its not the Turkish way.

Gocek, Wednesday and beyond

I start to try to get into a routine.  Wednesday I start the day with meditation and yoga.  I do my first unsupported head stand but am feeling sore in my joints...left side as always, elbow, knee, neck.  In general it is a good session.  I swim some laps and notice that as I take one breath I can see the masts of yachts anchored in the harbour, as I take a breath on the other side i see the dramatic hills that are the backdrop to this town of Gocek.  Prettiest environment to do laps I been in for a long time!   I discover the fitness centre and decide after lying in the sun its a good thing to do.  I cant remember the last time I was on a xtrainer but it has to be last year!  Similarly the treadmill.  I manage to do a bit on each and feel good afterwards.  The rest of the day disappears in swimming, reading, eating, and catching up on the blog posts, although not able to put them up as I don’t have the internet, but Im over that as you can tell.

I feel quite sad that I only have 14 nights left here...a night in Istanbul then I wing my way home.